Vodka!

i realize that i have not yet written about my visit to the russian vodka museum in st petersburg!  so, while this weekend after the ballet, didn't really hold anything crazy-interesting, i thought i'd backtrack to record the vodka museum.  it is really just an excuse to have a lot of vodka in one place and charge people to "tastings"...the tastings are of russian standard vodka...a decent one, but one you can find anywhere here.  so while you do get to try three different kinds (plain, silver, and gold standard), you could do that yourself in your kitchen.  but you get traditional russian snacks, too, which is kinda fun.  and then you're buzzed, so you go eat in the attached restaurant which isn't that great, but it seems so, cuz there are hundreds of kinds of vodka and after that official "tasting" you feel like an expert so you try more!  and buy a bunch of souvenirs like magnets that say "drinking of alcoholic beverages ALLOWED."  and also decorated wooden cases for small bottles of vodka shaped like soldiers, maidens, priests, santa clause, a snowman, and a christmas tree.  irresistible!

at the ice bar (not functional) outside the museum/restaurant.

vodka decanters!  or, well, fancy holders.  i think they are gorgeous.

classy shot glasses...

and a bit less classy...but still pretty cool.

wooden bottle-holders!  i bought the christmas tree and a beautiful maiden.

pretty self-explanatory...the show of power of russia is alive and well even in it's bottle design...

the "tasting" with traditional snacks!  tasty pickle.  less tasty pork fat on brown bread.  least tasty, onions, smoked fish and egg on brown bread.  dad would have loved it tho!

vashe zdrovye!

this is the list of vodka you can order.  

fabulous.

and this is the magnet that says "drinking of alcoholic beverages is allowed."  don't worry, i bought several.  :)

Entertainment

after last weekend's eating extravaganza, i decided to switch gears this weekend and spend my rubles on entertainment!  and this being international women's day, we had the day off!  which meant we could go out late-night last night!  so we did.

when i first found out that i got this job, i posted on facebook asking for anyone with any friends or connections in moscow.  one of the first people to respond was my friend rachelle, a fabulous musician in nyc.  she connected me with her friend varvara, a music producer and club-owner in moscow.  it was her club's 4th anniversary last night, and she invited me to join.  i dragged along a few italians, a couple russians, and a canadian with me and we had a BLAST.  the club is less a dance club, more like a 30's style jazz club.  it's a restaurant, and bar, and i think a small theatre, all decked out like a swank 30's jazz club in chicago...this is moscow's version of the green mile!  beautiful art deco lamp shades, black and white tiles on the walls, cute tables and cafe chairs, hazy amber lighting.  it was gorgeous.  and so chill.  free champagne (i drank a whole glass!!!  SHOCKING.  but i did. the bubbles bothered me a little, but i felt obligated, on my first real "night out" in russia, and at a new friend's anniversary party.  and then i had a whiskey...way more my style.  :)  there were old BW films being projected behind the stage, and a fabulous jazzy band played - all american oldies from the pre-WWII era, and some after.  the singer was fantastic.  and, get this.  in the band, there was a clarinet, and, wait for it....a BASSOON!  a bassoon.  in a jazz band.  in moscow.  life could not get any better.  we danced for hours and everyone was dressed to match the theme...20's and 30's chicago...there were flappers, and bow ties and lots of sequins and headbands and one girl with a tiny hat!  so fun.  here are some pics.  The club is called Masterskaya, which i think means something like "craft workshop."  anyway, it's a very cool place, and if i were going to run a club in moscow, this is pretty much exactly what i'd do.  a place with live music, good food, a great bar, a small theatre, and everything looking like a sexy 30's jazz club.  pretty fantastic.

the poster on the left is the advertisement for the party (the name of the club is the word in quotations...and right below is the description of the theme of the party..."chicago 20's and 30's").  my friend varvara looks pretty much exactly like the woman on the left, too.  she's very stylish.  and i won major points with the team for knowing her and bringing them to the party.  go me!

this is the stellar band.  note the BASSOON on the right.  and he's wearing red and black leopard print sunglasses.  you're beyond cool when you can rock a bassoon in sunglasses you could get at claire's boutique.  

behind the bassonist is the bass-player...on an acoustic bass.  again, what the russians can get away with...

this is us on the escalator down to the metro...from the bottom are sara (italian), diana (russian), julie-anne (canadian) and lorenzo (italian).  we got back to the hotel around 1:30, at which point lorenzo invited us to his shared suite with sara for a nightcap.  when we all arrived, he was boiling water...for pasta...that'd he'd brought from italy...with olive oil and parmesean...that he'd brought from italy.  he asked us if we wanted any...my response was "um, of course!"  when an italian is cooking pasta and asks you if you want any, you say YES.  i'm making some fine friends over here.  :)

tonight, anne and i went to the ballet!  it's not the bolshoi, this ballet company didn't throw acid on it's artistic director, no, it was a "lesser" ballet company, but amazing nonetheless.  the ballet was Anna Karenina, and it was just as devastating as the book and movie.  an amazingly detailed and beautifully choreographed performance.  very modern, but obviously heavily influenced by classical ballet.  gorgeous.  and then we went for thai food!  the restaurant was called...big surprise..."tai tai!"  tripled as a hookah lounge and karaoke bar.  most everyone was smoking a hookah (we didn't indulge), but the only people singing karaoke were the karaoke dj's.  so was kinda sad.  but the food was good, and it was nice to have some spice (well, just a bit for me obviously), and some different flavors to meat and bread and potatoes.

this afternoon brittany (canadian working in operations) and i struck out to find a cafe near the hotel.  we lucked out, and sat in a sunny window drinking espresso.  was quite relaxing, and felt almost normal!  tomorrow i think we'll do some more exploring, maybe even go to the movies!!  that will be a great accomplishment if we can figure out which cinema plays movies in their original language, get ourselves there and buy tickets.  never thought it would be a challenge to go to the movies, but it is here.

oh, and since it is officially international women's day, here are some pics of how it was celebrated in the office yesterday:

some of our male colleagues greeted us with bouquets of flowers for all of the women!

said flowers at my desk.

then, i walked away from my desk for a meeting, and returned to find this!  they had come around with a cart of champagne and tarts!  oh, and all of the video screens in the office took a break from showing ceremonies past, to show all kinds of cutsie, girly things...like montages of couples kissing, and hello kitty, and the 20th century fox logo but with the words replaced to say "girls spring here" and videos of flowers and springtime.  i could have done without the videos, but the flowers and treats were nice!  a very fun day all in all.

this is my "official" desk sign.  it's got the official sochi 2014 look and feel and font!  i love the patchwork.  i might just have to buy a jacket with that pattern on it...

ha ha!  and this is a typical sight on the streets of moscow.  this was found on our walk to a grocery store for lunch...yes, there are plenty of modern vehicles around, but on almost every street, you see these guys.  and some of them are still being driven around!  would scare the crap outta me to get in one.  this one looks like it's there for good.  this is the soviet car retirement home.

this is just for fun.  can you tell which fast food chain this is??  

off to bed now.  big hugs to you all back home.  miss you tons.  xo

   

One Month In

was just about to go to sleep when i realized that it is my one-month anniversary living in russia!  definitely a date to be marked.  it feels simultaneously like i've been here forever, and just the blink of an eye.  i suppose that is typical of very intensive experiences.  and not only am i getting used to the country, the language, but i'm also getting used to a new job.  new personalities.  new politics.  and finding my way when there really isn't a road map to follow...it's not like there is a "wrap report" from the segment producer on the last opening ceremonies!  i feel like i'm "faking it until i make it."  having never done this job before, it's a little strange.  but i've project managed, and been in similar situations, so it's not totally unfamiliar.  but it would be nice to have a job description.  on the other hand, i can kinda do what i want, and if i pretend it's what i'm supposed to be doing, people believe it!  i'm in the creative/producer dept.  so, well, anything goes, really.  and it's all about relationships.  so the majority of my time is spent getting to know people, gaining their trust, their respect.  even in social situations, like the georgian dinner...we were sizing each other up, it was as much work as it was play.  but things are starting to move a bit, i'm getting projects and learning how to build and manage the LARGEST budget i have EVER done.  like, big numbers.  bigger than i will probably EVER make, combined, in my working career.  so that's exciting!  and a lot of other things are exciting, but you're just going to have to wait to see them on Feb 7.  and also likely on the 23rd!  as i'm probably going to be working a bit on the closing ceremonies as well!  fun times!

as for learning about this country...it's a slow process.  like i've said before, i wish i could pick up the language more quickly.  it's just SO foreign.  i didn't study russian history or literature besides what they discuss in survey courses in high school.  so there is barely anything i have to go on in my past.  at least spanish and sometimes french are taught on sesame street.  those pronunciations and sounds are kinda familiar.  russian?  nah.  no way.  the liquidity of the language, the words, as people speak makes it SO hard for me to discern the specific words.  and so many words are single letters...c (or s) is "with," b (or v) is "in,"  so when they are next to words that start with the same letter, there is no separating them.  makes it hard.  and the pronunciation is difficult for me.  daily, i try to practice words that i know.  all i get are cocked heads, quizzical looks.  and then i ask how to pronounce the word, and my russian colleagues say it.  and i'm like, "yeah!  that's what i said!"  but they sadly shake their heads, or smirk a bit.  all out of love, and they like that i'm trying, so much.  but i'm not doing very well.  ha ha!  all in good time.  at least it's not chinese.  but my aunt, who speaks fluent chinese, is married to a man from taiwan, says russian is harder than chinese.  great.

anyway, i'm still very glad i'm here.  even tho, one month in, reality is setting in.  and it's hard to communicate, the wonder and the humorousness are waning...now it's just plain hard.  i feel crippled and helpless sometimes.  and i have such a newfound respect for our russian colleagues who speak english.  they have big jobs...not only are they doing their job, but they are also translating for us...and translating not just the words, but the culture, the way of doing things, the governmental "strategies" and "practices."  it is nice to be working with people who, yes, have a profound (if motivated by fear) respect for the government, but also know the reality of the kind of state they are living in.  there's no defending the motherland going on here...at least politically.

ok, didn't mean to get so wordy.  but it's a good time for reflection.  what i've learned...i can say hello, thank you, please, i don't understand, do you understand english, how to count to 10, a few colors and verbs, a few nouns here and there...i can read better than i can speak, which is amazing, cuz it's also REALLY hard to read..they have "letters" that are just indicators of how to pronounce the letter that comes before them.  but they don't actually make any sound, i think.  and then, other letters change how they are pronounced in various words, seemingly randomly to me, but i'm sure there's logic.  i'm starting with a russian language tutor next week and i can hardly wait.  the overachiever in me is dying a little bit right now that i haven't mastered hardly anything!  :)  so this is a good lesson for me, or rather good practice in patience and going easy on myself.  i just don't want to walk away from here, having been here a year, and only know please and thank you and how to count to 10.  i was in paris a week and i could communicate WAY more.  (tho they also smirked and gave me quizzical looks...).

anyway, time for bed.  likely doing more budgeting tomorrow, which means i need a clear head.  and i'll probably make some flashcards.  i'll never stop being an overachiever.  :)

goodnight to all my lovely friends and family back home wherever you are.  please send warm thoughts my way, as i try to make my home (if temporary) here in this crazy big foreign land.  love to you all.  xo

Weekending in Moscow

sorry for the absence.  last week was pretty busy with meetings in the evenings, so i didn't get a lot of sleep, and i ended up going out for lengthy dinners this past weekend, so i pretty much slept all day on sunday.  it's exhausting living in a different country...everything takes effort.  and i never know what surprise awaits.  yesterday evening i got accosted in the grocery store by the check-out clerk...turns out she was scolding me for not having taken the price tag off of the reuseable bag i purchased a few weeks ago, making her think i just purchased it today.  thank goodness there was another store patron who spoke english and could translate for me.  but it was unnerving being yelled at in a language you don't know, while holding up the line of people who just want to buy some chicken and vegetables and get home to dinner.  everything is an adventure i supposes.

anyway, so here are some pics from the various social activities i've managed to do between evening meetings.  ok, so we didn't ice skate on the weekend, as the title of this blog suggests, but i include it as it was a social activity.

ice skating in gorky park!!  it's just as touristy as it sounds.  like ice skating in central park, if they have iced over some of the pathways in addition to a rink.  you can skate up to cafes and kiosks selling food, tea, wine, etc.  very fun.  and very expensive.  like everything in this city.  but still a pretty darn good time.

This is a soup kiosk.  it's not on the skating route, but fun none-the-less.

the skating rink.

sasha, liza, and beckie skating away.

sasha, beckie, liza, and mike, in the kiddie rink.  the penguins are used by little kids to help them learn to skate.  and are just so darn cute!

the group of us.

in the snow outside the rink.  

next up...a georgian meal.  ok.  so we got invited (and treated) to a georgian feast by our russian exec producer.  he arranged for cars to pick us up from the hotel, and take us to this place.  and this place, the restaurant, looked like it was straight out of epcot center.  "welcome to georgia-land!" it should have said.  it was crazy.  a big themed restaurant with cobblestones outside and inside...waterfalls, fish pond, big barrels and big wooden tables and balconies and fire places.  disneyland.  oh!  and there were roving musicians, and roving dancers dressed in black silk costumes.  they were supposed to be dance-fighting over a girl, but the girl never showed up for her part of the dance, so they were just dance-fighting, i guess.  but the dancing was so intense.  angular, stomping, twirling, sashay-ing, emotional intensity.  the roving singers were beautiful...accoustic with a guitar.  and all the russians at the table knew the songs.  apparently, the georgian tradition is to eat, and sing, and drink and eat and sing and drink and eat and sing and drink all night long.  if we knew the songs, it would have been perfect!  we ate and drank enough, that's for sure.  courses of food kept coming,  and we drank wine and special mineral water that is illegal in russia because diplomatic relations with georgia are not so good.  so you can only find those beverages in the restaurant.  and cha-cha...the georgian grappa.  our glasses were never empty.  it was a long night.  but a fun one.  a bit overwhelming at times...but a good chance to get to know our russian producers.  it was quite dark, so i couldn't get good picks of the dancing, unfortunately.  but just think silky, twirling ninjas and you about have it.

the outside entrance to the restaurant. you pretty much enter the mouth of the barrel.  see?  epcot center.

round one of food.

toward the end of round 8 or 9.

the roving musicians!

dessert.

a close-up of the fried fish, very traditional.  you can eat the heads and tails, but i skipped that part.  the bread in the background has cheese in it, topped with a fried egg.  i feel for the arteries of these people!

another pic of the outside of the restaurant.  it's a huge place.

i was hoping for a more laid-back evening on saturday night, and i guess i got it, but at quite a price.  i agreed to go to a group dinner at a fish restaurant in the same complex as the hotel.  first of all, i ignored the cardinal rule of group dinners (you inevitable spend MORE than if you paid on your own cuz everyone splits it) and the cardinal rule of eating with people on per diem (generally people on per diem get expensive bottles of wine).  it ultimately was a nice dinner, the fish was excellent - they roasted a whole one for the table (they brought it to the table to show it off...one might say "upsell") and we bought in.  they encrusted it with sea salt, and stuffed it with potatoes, tomatoes, olives, etc.  super yummy.   but it cost a couple of day's worth of per diem.  oh well.  thank goodness bfast and dinners are more or less provided at the hotel.  

Anyway, here is our waiter, after having set the fish on fire at the table, more like a dramatic display than anything to do with the actual cooking.  but they spoke enough english and were extremely pleasant with good senses of humor.  a good night out.

and then on sunday night, i attempted cooking.  i succeeded and failed.  i succeeded in picking out what i thought were uncooked breaded chicken cutlets.  i was right!  and i pan-seared them (i have 2 burners and about just as many pots) so they were tasty and juicy inside.  i failed, however, to figure out what the grain was that i previously thought was couscous.  i think it's closer to quinoa, but more exactly that either.  so that took a really long time.  i added some curry and some dried fruits (bonus points if anyone can tell me what fruit dries emerald green...) but it took too long so i just re-heated pasta and sauce and made my own make-shift chicken parm (without the parm).

it's like learning to cook all over again.  learning to do everything all over again.  having to do laundry in my bathroom sink cuz the hotel charges too much, and we haven't figured out a proper and reliable laundry service elsewhere.  having to buy very simple things at the grocer, things with pictures on them so i know what they are (except, i guess, quinoa/couscous).  having to learn a new map, with new names in a new language.  having to learn new routines at the office (like everyone wears outdoor boots to the office, then changes into heeled nice boots in the office; and you have to bring in your own coffee beans; and the russians don't come in until around 11, and don't eat lunch until 2 or so).  and watching wierd english movies, cuz there's only one non-news station that is in english.  and not being able to call home when i want.  and printing on A4 paper...that is the wierdest size, i'm telling you.  and not being able to drink the water, so i'm constantly worried that i'm poisoning myself when i take a shower (ok, that's a bit dramatic, but it's more of a concern than showering in PC anyway).  learning how to order a coffee.  but it will all come in time.  it's just all really, really different now.  and i think it might be more alarming cuz it's so similar, it's just a little bit different, and that little bit can feel like a lot sometimes.  especially when my brain refuses to see a "p" as an "r" or a backwards "R" as "ya."  sigh.  again, it will all come in time.  just like the twirling georgian dancers.  when you least expect it, there they are, delighting and shocking you all at once.  

Furs in St Petersburg

i can't help it.  there are just so many fur coats here.  the stereotype is true.  and they are fashionable furs (some of them), and practical furs (most of them).  and they come in all shapes and sizes.  and i would like one with a large, drapey hood and a nice drapey belt.  i have a few months to find it.  :)

meanwhile, here are some photos of furs that i captured on the streets of st pete's.  a good slice of local life as well.  i hope you enjoy.

ok, so this doesn't totally count.  but, if you look closely, these are monkeys dressed up in baby snow clothes.  their "owner" hands them out to you as you walk by, trying to get you to pay to take a photo with them.  it's sick.  and these little guys have no idea what's happening.  i snuck a photo, cuz i was so fascinated.  but i feel a little gross for doing so, as i totally am a part of the exploitation now.  but i'm appalled, not adoring.  so maybe that counts for something??

moving on.  here is a couple outside hermitage.  

this lady is negotiating for a painting sold by an artist on the street.

this lady is making a phone call.  (i think she totally knew i was snapping a photo of her...)

these are two lovely older ladies leaving the Kazan Cathedral.

older furs meet younger furs.

beautiful group of older ladies out on a saturday...likely a tour group of some kind.  they each had a fur coat or hat or something made out of fur on their persons.

furs even go with tartan plaid!

another classic russian lady.

loud striped fur on the left.  hip, fashionable use of fur on the right.

there is a bit of an obsession with cats and cat art at the hermitage...like, classic ancient cat art, egyptian style, not like contemporary painting of cats.  but they do have a lot of cat books.  and i miss my cats, so i took this photo in honor of them.

and this is winter sara, trying out my drapey-hooded look.  there is a line of fake fur on the hood of my coat in this pic, but it's nowhere near as cool as the ladies above me.  i think i need a true russian fur.  it's fine if it's fake fur, but it's got to be russian.  :)

St Petersburg - General...oh, and a bit about a massage...

hello all.  sorry for the delay in posts.  took a brief, but amazing, weekend excursion up to St Petersburg (or St Pete's as some call it here).  incredible city.  extremely different feel from moscow, which is to be expected as it is much smaller, on the coast, looks like paris, and almost all signs are in russian as well as english.  a very tourist-driven city.  and so proud of it's history.  very fashionable as well.  i bought a cute pair of boots...tho they are italian, not russian.  but i bought them in russia, so that still counts, right?

here they are...i'm hoping i get the melissa soltesz stamp of approval.

so we arrived on fri am, and basically saw the sh*t out of some art until we left on sun eve.  oh, and we ate good things, too (gonna write a whole separate bit on that).  but the sightseeing was fantastic.  again, admitting how horribly ignorant i am about this country i'm in, i had NO idea there was a museum called the Hermitage.  and that is in a former palace (well, THREE) former palaces of romanov empresses of russia, and that it is in st petersburg.  oh yeah, and houses one of the finest collections of 19th and early 20th century french art that i've ever seen.  oh yeah, and it's the SECOND largest collection of artwork in the world after the Lourve.  well, i guess it was my lucky day, cuz i found all of that out, and got to see it all, too.

here is the Hermitage, the winter palace of catherine the 2nd (aka cathy the great), but was built in the late 18th century for peter the great's neice, i believe.  anyway, next to it are the "small palace" that catherine called her "hermitage" - her hideaway built in the early 19th century, another palace built during catherine's time, and a more modern palace for the romanov's in the late 19th century.  they were all art collectors, and we get to benefit.

here is the winter palace...the main building.  this is sat am, and it was snowing, so there is a snow plow pushing snow away from the front of the building.  the hermitage is one side of a HUGE piazza that is 2x the size of red square, if i remember correctly.  more photos of it later.  but it is kinda funny to see a snow plow in front of an 18th century pale green building.  

here is the library of tzar nicholas II (the one who was killed during the revolution of 1917), from the "new" palace as a part of the complex.  they have preserved the rooms more or less just like the romanov family used them.  and they are stuthe one who was killed during the revolution of 1917).  i would love to have a library like this.  i would read more.  and probably write more "correspondence." 

this is me on the grand staircase into the winter palace that catherine added on...it is called the jordan staircase cuz it leads to the exit along the canal in back of the building, and the royals thought they were just like jesus going to be baptized in the river jordan when they would process down the staircase to the water for religious ceremonies. eh, kinda...

this is winter sara in the plaza just out the front gates of the winter palace (where the snow plow was moments before).  the alexander column is in the background, which celebrates alexander I's defeat over napoleon in the great war of 1812.  and you can also see people dressed up like catherine the great, and peter the great.  and you can pay them to get a photo.  i did not do that, sorry.

this is winter sara and her colleague winter anne.

and these are more dress-up people!  this time with a horse and carriage!  so you can totally replay anna karenina.

we also went to the most beautiful church i have ever seen.  the church on the spilled blood (actually the church of the resurrection, but no one calls it that cuz it was built to commemorate the assasination of Alexander II, which happened on the spot where the church was later built.  they've even kept a section of the original road, where he was hit (by a bomb being thrown in his carriage), and put a canopy over it.  kinda morbid...but i suppose all cultures do slightly morbid things to commemorate their dead leaders.  anyway, here are some photos of the outside and the inside.  it is simply stunning.

and there is a gorgeous park off to the side...michealevsky park.  so we took a stroll there, too.  it is the summer garden to the summer palace that i think is now the russian museum.  lots of palaces-turned-museums here.  it was hard to keep them all straight, i'll be honest.  but they are all beautiful, and so ornate.  and we only saw a few of them!  there are more across the river!  and outside of town!  one could make a whole year of seeing summer and winter palaces.  no wonder the people revolted...the excess is just outrageous.  anyway, here are pictures from the park...

 
 i'm not sure what the ice sculpture says...i haven't learned to read in cursive script yet.  but that is me standing between two of the letters.

here are some "street scenes" from st pete's.  like i said in a facebook post...from 60 hours there, i can say it feels like the charming younger sister to moscow's gritty intensity.  (to which my sister replied that she was st petersburg and i was moscow.  well, fine.  i'd like to be charming and beautiful...but the people revolted against that charm and beauty and moved the capitol to moscow, which is where the real action is.  so i guess in the end, i win that one.  :)  ).

oh, yeah, and we saw the famous sculpture of peter the great...for whom the city is named.  he was a pretty enterprising guy, and wanted to make russia more connected with europe, so intentionally designed st petersburg to be a more european city.  congrats, sir, on a job well done.

ok, so last but not least, a story, specifically for my friends laura leonard and melissa soltesz, who should probably meet and hang out.  they both have terrific senses of humor, love to laugh and love wine.  and they both (hopefully) read my blog, so here you go.

saturday eve we returned to our clean and modern hotel in the historic district to relax and rest up before going out for the evening.  we had been slow-walking in museums for 2 days straight, plus in and out of the cold and staring at artwork.  we were beat, and sore and my lower back was killing me.  i read that the hotel had a spa with a sauna, and according to the posting in the elevator, they also had massages available.  done!  so i went to investigate.  first of all, the entry to the fitness center cannot be found without a gps, a map, speaking fluent russian, and three hotel receptionists.  once i finally found the small door marked "fitness," i entered the tiny fitness reception area.  tiny.  i mean, the size of an armchair.  there was a friendly, if strict receptionist and a large bear of a man in sweatpants and a white undershirt sitting in a chair next to the check-in station.  which pretty much means i was sitting in his lap while talking to the receptionist.  i asked if it was possible to use the sauna.  "now?!?" the receptionist asked.  um, yeah, now would be good.  so she asked my room number, gave me a towel, and a locker key and said "you will shower before."  yes ma'am.  then i asked about massages.  "now?!" again.  yes, sure, why not?  she looked at the man in sweatpants, he put down the paper, and gestured to me that sure, i can get a massage now.  ummmm.  he gestured that i should go thru the locker area and then find his office where he will presumably be waiting.  he seemed very nice, for wearing sweatpants and being about 300 pounds.  knowing melissa and laura would want to know what happens next, i thought, hey, ok, i'll try this out.  so i showered as instructed, and slipped and slid in the cheap slippers herr receptionist gave me and made my way to the massage office.  boris, let's call him, was there, again reading a newspaper.  "please, come in" he said. he pointed to the standard massage table in the middle of the room, covered neatly in a sheet and some towels.  "lay down.  on stomach.  face here." directing me to put my face in the divot in the table.  fair enough - seems very similar to massages i've had in the past, ok, it seems fine so far.  he left the room so i could undress and hoist myself onto the table.  since i was just getting a back massage, i kept the undies on, and draped my own towel over my lower half.  boris knocked, asked if "is ok?" to come in.  yes, is ok.  "all back? or low back?"  all back.  "you have some pain?"  yes, some, not so bad.  and the massage begins.  pretty normal.  warming up the muscles, etc.  so i start to relax.  and it really does feel pretty fabulous.  until he starts to dig into my lower back.  and then, starts to push into my glutius maximus...and then starts massaging my tail bone.  whoa.  um, how far you gonna explore down there boris?  thankfully, tail bone is it.  and then he asked me to turn on my side.  so i think, flip over.  "no!  side, side!"  ok, stay on my side.  and he stretches me over his beefy arm.  does this both sides.  it's also actually pretty great, so i start to relax again.  and then he does have me flip over.  so i make sure my towel covers my top parts and i settle down, a bit on edge, as not sure what part of "back massage" includes me actually lying on my back.  but all is well.  he massages my neck, and then stretches and pulls on my legs.  i notice he pulls the right one a lot harder than the left, and i'm thinking he's pretty smart, cuz my right hip was really sore and tight from slow-walking so much.  so i relax again.  and then he says "sit up! sit up 2 minutes."  so i sit up, holding the towel against me.  he rubs the oil off of my back and asks "not dizzy?"  nope, not dizzy.  then he leaves the room so i can dress again.  so yeah, overall a great massage experience.  but a little freaky there in parts.  which i kept thinking was like a metaphor for this whole experience.  i didn't want it to end, yet i also hated being on edge the whole time wondering what was coming up next.  it was simultaneously so familiar, and so foreign.  relaxing and terrifying.  and for about 25 minutes, i felt a microcosm of what my life will be like for the next year.  i won't want it to end, yet i will crave being at home in the US.  loving it, and hating it at the same time, and seeing things in a new light and learning to trust along the way.  i guess that is what the adventure is all about. but i still don't need to have my coccyx massaged.  that was wierd.